The concept of behemoth vessels transporting hundreds of vessels to an island paradise is one we take for granted here in the Pacific Northwest. With dozens of destination choices throughout the state’s ferry system, there are islands you visit, and islands you inhabit. Lopez — the laid-back southernmost kin of Washington’s San Juan Islands — falls firmly in the second category. A week there doesn’t feel like a vacation so much as the gentle refresh you didn’t know you needed. Remember my exploration of Whidbey Island a few years back? While I loved the vibe on Whidbey, “Slopez” (as the locals call it) adds another laid-back option to your PNW travel toolkit.
Getting there is half the experience. We killed time dockside with a spirited game of cribbage trailer-side while waiting for the ferry — which, it turns out, is exactly the right pace-setter for everything that follows on Lopez. Yes, there were envious looks.
The first five days we spent “moochdocking” with friends, which is exactly as luxurious and as unglamorous as it sounds depending on your perspective. Ours: entirely luxurious. From that home base, we set about doing Lopez the way Lopez insists on being done — slowly, with frequent stops.
The Farms
Lopez doesn’t just have a farm-to-table culture; it practically is the farm. Sunnyfield Farm turned out to be an early favorite — their fresh chèvre paired with a homemade jalapeño-blackberry jam made for a last-minute hors d’oeuvre situation that looked far more intentional than it was. Horse Drawn Farm kept our salad bowls full all week with beautiful produce and offered frozen meats straight from their own animals — the kind of transparency in sourcing that’s easy to appreciate when you’re cooking campsite meals and actually thinking about what’s on your plate.
And then there’s Fine Mess Bakery. Every good houseguest brings their hosts something sweet, right? Consider this your permission slip to show up with an armful of their baked goods and zero apologies.
Needing a lunch or dinner out without pretension? That’s where chef John Ratza’s noodly new location comes in. With the history and vibes of beloved island favorite The Galley on Lopez, Ratza’s Setsunai hits the mark in this new (much larger) locale.
The Food & Music
Ursa Minor is the kind of PNW restaurant that earns its reputation without trying to announce it — exceptional northwest fare in an unfussy setting. Keep an eye on their occasional pop-ups, including the “Bike Shop Banh Mi” with savory fillings that are ideal for a grab-and-go picnic at the beach.
The Lopez Uncovered Music Festival — typically the last weekend of July or into early August — is one of those only-on-an-island experiences worth planning a trip around. Beer, snacks, Washington-based bands, and all the grass you need to spread out and let an afternoon dissolve completely.
Spencer Spit
For the final stretch, we transitioned to Spencer Spit State Park, and the upgrade in scenery was immediate. The “spit” itself — a long, curved finger of land extending into the water — opens up into a wide walking area with an estuary that’s genuinely excellent for birdwatching. The views are the kind that make you reconsider your life choices in the best possible way.
The Rest of It
Woven through the whole week were farmstands and flower stands at nearly every turn — because fresh flowers belong in a travel trailer just as much as anywhere else, glamping pretensions be damned. And, of course, nothing says “Thank you!” than an armful of flowers.
And the send-off? As the ferry pulled away from the dock heading home, a pod of orcas materialized alongside us — as if Lopez had one final thing to show off. Noted, Lopez. We’ll be back.
